After the body work being done and all the bad spots being replaced it was time to paint the body shell. The color used on the car when I bought the car was AC603 a blue used on '59 DSs. I wanted to have it re-painted in the original color AC606, Blue glaciers. A piece in the original color from the interior was used to determine a nearby 'RAL' color, which matched (a bit lighter to compensate for the fading of the color over the years).

2cv body I started with cleaning all bare metal (small areas) from remaining rust spots using grid 50 sandpaper. All intact paint surfaces were lightly skimmed with 400 grid sand paper also taking care the edges between the bare metal and paintwork were smoothed. Also small dents and welds were filled to provide a smooth surface. The bare metal areas were treated with a filling etching primer applied with a brush for the difficult spots and a roller for the larger areas. Kit was applied to seal the welds on the inside of the car and a second coat of primer was applied. The larger areas were smoothed afterwards with 800 wet and dry sandpaper. After these coats dried thoroughly I applied two layers of the blue color with a brush. A roller did not work for me because the paint dried with air bubbles in the paint. A brush worked fine. Brush paining is a way for me to keep the house clean and works well if you are prepared to polish the larger areas to get rid of the brush strokes. On the smaller areas I did not do this, as the strokes are not very visible there.

2cv body This is done the following way:

If this process is done properly it leaves a very acceptable flat surface. If you do not dare to do a complete car, use this technique if you want to repair small patches of paintwork on your car first. It really works for me.

2cv body After applying the blue paint I applied the black paint on the footplates and rear wheel arches. It started to look like a car again. Now I was ready to mount it on the already prepared chassis.